The Times provides its half-yearly fashion supplement today. I've avoided it the past few years, partly because the Times has been retooling this "book" and its other "lifestyle" supplements (The Sophisticated Traveler, The Design and Architecture Supplement, and now one on Entertaining) into a "T" concept that's supposed to unite them but mostly seems silly.
One unfortunate result is a sameness to the covers of the last three offerings of "Fashions of The Times" - a head and shoulders shot of a "who?" starlet (I noticed it beginning with Catherine Keener, followed by Penelope Cruz, and now Robin Wright Penn. As I said, "who?"). It's worse than Vogue, even, because the outfits have not really been representative (or visible, even) of the season, and they're made up... like starlets, so who cares?
Inside, I suspect Jennifer will be mighty annoyed because the emphasis is on slick and arty, and not really on wearable; how this is supposed to help a Times reader pick clothes is beyond me. (Jennifer's also going to be a little ticked, I think, that she and Mary-Kate Olsen love the same Chanel bag.)
What ticks me is that there's an article in here that goes to my main annoyance with fashion writing: that no one states obvious, negative assessments of designers' work, for fear of alienating them. Cathy Horyn dives into the challenges facing the house of Yves Saint Laurent, now designed by Stefano Pilati, and in doing so, finally manages to acknowledge something I said years ago: that Tom Ford's collections for the house were not very good. She includes these thoughts:
Ford certainly had a new vision for the brand, as well as the attention of Wall Street and Hollywood, but his efforts were hindered by the global economic slump that followed the Sept. 11 attacks. It also didn’t help that Bergé continually derided Ford’s work. By the spring of 2004, though, both Ford and the Gucci chief executive Domenico De Sole were out, having lost control in a power struggle with the group’s French owner, Pinault-Printemps-Redoute (PPR).... Zambernardi of Prada told me, “So far, I like what Stefano is doing for YSL, and I never liked what Tom Ford did.”...Although Ford initially got on well with Bergé and Saint Laurent and based his first YSL show on Saint Laurent’s muse, Betty Catroux, he soon realized he could never hope to take YSL in a new direction if he allowed Bergé to be involved, as Bergé expected. This may account for Bergé’s scorn.
Or, it could be, as more than one person noted, Ford's work wasn't cutting it.
I did want to also note that last week's "Thursgay Styles" section elaborated on something hinted at in their earlier article on Anna Wintour - they finally went public with their criticism of the Marchesa dress line, designed by Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman... who, as it happens, is dating Harvey Weinstein. The Times tries to make this look as insider-y as possible (clearly, Harvey's presence is the only reason she's dressing Renee Zellwegger, for instance), but the shoe doesn't quite fit; much of the article makes Craig and Chapman look much more serious than many socialite gown designers (does anyone, for instance, remember Carolyne Roehm?). Craig and Chapman are clearly hands-on, clearly devoted to the kind of opulent gown construction (sewn-in corsets, etc) that's required for true red carpet fashion, and not just in it for the attention.
And yes, I promise to follow up my New York report with a similar sum-up for Milan.
Recent Comments